I’m reorganising my hobby space and I could really use some inspiration for cool and effective ways to do this. I have a rectangular room of about 15sqrm (6m x 2.5m) for this, I also have a treadmill in there so I don’t have tons of space.
Hello, who do you guys get your files from? Im trying to find some cool designs and someone who drops files pretty frequently to make it worth using printer space, let me know what you guys think! Thanks
It will be a 240x280x70ish speaker stand. The first go ground with it flat and support free resulted in warping despite a 60°C chamber, so I stood it on its end, cut print speed by a third, and added the breaks to reduce stress.
I’m curious why I don’t hear more about mattercad here or elsewhere? It’s free (not FOSS), and for me really fills the gap between tinkercad and most professional cad software. I often see questions about people wanting to move beyond tinkercad but being intimidated by the learning curve and the fairly large jump between it and higher powered software. Mattercad fits so nicely in this space. Yes it’s a bit slow once shapes get more complex, and it has some frustrating bugs that I don’t think will ever be fixed, but it’s both powerful and simple.
I’m curious if there are places people think it falls short or if you think I’m wrong and there is a better intermediate software package I should be considering?
This particular filament (Sunlu matte HS PETG) is one of the absolute worse WRT being hygroscopic. It arrived so wet that I had literal steam from the extruder the first time I wanted to use it. It took almost 48h in my drier to dry it completely so I could use it. Its been sitting in an airtight box with dessicant for 5 weeks and I needed to dry it for >16h for it to be usable again. The wet part in this print was in the bowden tube between dryer and printer, I restarted the print after took this image.
I’m trying to find the reason why my bigger printer suddenly decided to constantly create blockages as high as the PTFE tube in the cooling block (so a little bit above the heatbreak).
I got one last week and it’s good, real good. But like too good? So I’ll never have to worry about bed adhesion, which is not a problem very often but is the most common problem on the stock textured PEI plate that the printer comes with. But with the cool plate I definitely don’t have to worry about it. Conversely, I have to worry about getting my prints off the bed without damaging them.
I recently decided to force myself to actually learn FreeCad. I’ve tried on and off for the past two years but just couldn’t get along with the UI and workflow…well, now I’m giving it an honest shot, and after a few weeks of misery, it is getting better.
Designing a simple photo frame. I wanted to make it so that it prints without supports. While printing, however, the back support part wobbles/vibrates with movement, and is printing terribly.
Back in 2018 I bought an Ender 3 and over the years after a lot of tinkering and upgrading I got really sick of having to work on it, so I shelved it permanently a few years ago. I didn’t have very much I wanted to print by then anyway, and another print failure that resulted in a giant ball of plastic covering the hotend for the umpteenth time tipped me over the edge. I could only disassemble it for service so many times before I started wanting to give it the Office Space treatment.
I’ve had a MK4S for over a week now, and 100% of the prints I’ve tried to make on the textured sheets have partially or totally failed. PLA prints beautifully on the smooth sheet, but PLA, PETG and ABS, I think I could print on the surface of a 10 inch tank of oil with more success than the textured sheet. Plastic doesn’t stick to it. I’ve wiped it with isopopyl, I’ve washed it with dawn…it’s a bad print surface and I want my money back.
I’m about to paint a PLA 3D print for the first time, and while there is some advice on what primer to use (an automotive etching plastic primer seems to be it), I’ve not see anything but hand wavy “add a layer of clear coat” for sealing.
I was pretty excited about Prusa’s OpenPrintTag specs and the implication with NFC tags, but there weren’t any apps available that could generate them (or read the bin files generated on the site), so I built (well… mostly vibe coded) an app!
After Having experimented in Making Perfectly Smooth Surfaces for about a Year now within the Print Process itself, Its time I Capitulate and start putting in some more Work and Sand it all smooth!
I’ve finally reached a brick wall where I can’t just find something on Printables/Thingiverse that I can modify for my use case. Until now, I’ve been able to find something close and use OrcaSlicer to make small adjustments or occasionally kit bash two models together.
Tried printing the frog from this set at 75% scale, and it came out like this. The original 3mf for this one doesn’t include supports. What should I adjust on my printer to get better overhangs without supports?
Full brims, mouse ears, with glue, without glue, higher bed temperature, lower bed temperature, flat base, concentric cutout base - whatever I try, I seem to be getting wank adhesion, major warping, and ultimately this shitshow.
Added a PEI plate for my Artillery Genius using bull clips, and after leveling the leveling/adhesion test print comes out like this. Is this just me leveling the bed too close to the nozzle, or is it the pei plate not heating up as much as the original glass bed? It’s at 60c btw
Is a CR-Touch sensor a “consumable”? Creality thinks so. After our CR-10 SE failed, we spent 23 days fighting a warranty claim that should have taken minutes.
Hi all,
I want to buy my son a 3D printer for his 20th birthday.
He is a third year computer science major, so has no issues with the software side.
I have no idea where to start, or even what questions to ask.
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Over the summer I picked up a secondhand Saturn 2 to play around with. Pretty quickly got it dialed in and was getting good prints out of it, mostly miniatures for tabletop games
So, because I’m a lazy fuck with an extra print sheet, I decided to go against the advice on the internet, and test how my print sheet would handle my dishwasher.
I managed to find the greatest deal ever on a used 3D printer. I've already got a new screen with updated firmware, a new hotend kit on its way today, and I am planning on replacing the bed with tempered glass at some point (I am nervous about ordering it online). I'm also getting the enclosure because my apartment is very small.
I am new to 3D printing and I am not sure how to troubleshoot printing issues. In this post, I have a specific issue I cannot figure out and would love help diagnosing it. But I would also welcome beginner friendly resources to determine what the issue is and how to address it. I like gardening and with plants, you learn a method of identifying issues and working your way to ID the problem so you can narrow possible solutions.
Example: I have a plant that looks unhealthy.
I've been tuning my Creality K1 ever since getting it (at a steal of $237.15!) about 3 months ago, and I finally got to a point where I'm getting really good, consistent quality results.
For those of you running your printers from a Linux PC, what slicer software works for you? I switched from Windows to Kubuntu about 6 weeks ago. Had been using Orca for about 2 years, but the Linux version doesn't fully function for me. The build plate preview and functions are just a blank page. Trying to link a 3d printer causes Orca to crash. From comments online, there are plenty of people with the same issue and no resolution yet, using various Linux distros. So is anyone having luck with a slicer program using Linux, Wayland, and a nvidia graphics card?
This came from my Bambu P1S, I did a hotend replacement a week ago and I only print simples models since.
This time I tried to print a model a bit more complexe with supports and it failed.
Filament is dry, ambiant humidity is 7% in the AMS.
So I've been noticing a few of my recent prints had some under extrusion around the z seam leaving indents that look like tearing. After basic troubleshooting I come to find that the issue is in the slicer. Could somone help me figure out what settings I need to change? Changing the z seam type doesn't really help, it just seems like cura is refusing to close the seam and would rather my prints have a fissor on them.
Hey, I've just got this device sv06+ ace, everything is great except one thing it doesn't display how much time left to print and shows how much time passed, quick search gave me nothing. Is there a way to display this information?
How do you decide what to print and what sites do you use to find free files? Im having a hard time finding 3d prints and the harder part is picking a file i like.
Abandoned printing a few years ago, getting back into it. I have several rolls of PLA and one ABS. The PLA rolls are brittle due to being stored in the open for years. I ran them through a dryer at 50c for 12 hours with no improvement. I've seen suggestions online for 55c so I'm trying that right now, but I imagine they're fucked.
I've been experimenting with foldable 3d prints for tall thin walls in some game organizers. (Bigger pictures below.) The principle here is sort of similar to a living hinge, but not designed to flex too many times. Just fold once and be a reasonably stable structure.
i used blender 3.6 to create the Sage of sixth paths Shakujo. I have not printed at full size yet. to have a photo i printed a very tiny version of it and all was well accept i printed it so small that the supports broke one of the main body rods. hope you guys enjoy and print. lmk if anything needs changing/improvement.
The guys at Flow Battery Research Collective have been designing a Redox Flow Battery development kit that you can build yourself using a 3d printer and a few tools. It's a desktop size flow battery that you can use to either do your own research, e.g. on different electrolytes or just to replicate their experimental findings.
I wanted to share this highly customized GameCube keyboard controller I built for use with Animal Crossing. Since the first AC game doesn't support keyboard input, I used a Pi Pico to listen for keypresses and send simulated analog stick movements to the game, automating typing in Animal Crossing at a tool-assisted speedrun level. It works a treat! I designed the keycaps in FreeCAD and printed them on a Bambu P1P with an AMS and two different colors of PLA. The code and design files are available for free on GitHub.
I’m hoping you guys can help me figure this out. I have an ender 3 pro, running on marlin firmware.
Every time I try to print something one of the corners will lift up like that and ruin the entire print. I installed a crtouch to help with leveling, installed upgraded metal bed wheels to help it not fall out of level. Even tried a glass bed with glue and it still does the same thing. I used a filament dryer and have a heat enclosure.
I’m starting to run out of ideas on how to fix this. Any suggestions? The pic is how it starts and that was just a brim since I used to always use a raft and thought I should try that instead.
Got myself a PolyDryer and was very confused why it included bowden tubes. But then I had an idea. Why not just include a mount for the tubes on my setup and use it to guide my filament into the printer. Love how well it turned out.
First PETG 3d print in a while. Main body seems fine but overhangs are not. Unsure why. Need to investigate. (it's a phone stand, the central portion swings out and makes a triangle, holding phone in that curve.)
Had a weird black stain on a PETG print. Maybe it was mold? It seemed pretty penetrated into material. Tried windex, all purpose cleaning spray, dawn soap and couldn't get it out. Gave a tide pen a try and it scrubbed right out easily with that!
Designed in FreeCAD. I wanted to make a customizable screw and nut for my designs. Took me (on and off) weeks to get this working. But now that it does, I kind of want to test it to see how strong it is.
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